Masthuggskyrkan: National Romantic Style, Iconic Landmark, Adapting to the Changing Times
One of the 400 Experiences: To Do, To Know, To See in Gothenburg aka Göteborg (1621–2021) in Sweden
A city usually has a striking landmark, or an iconic structure, or a building that symbolises it such as the Liberty Statue in New York, Opera House in Sydney, Tower Bridge in London, India Gate in New Delhi or Gateway of India in Mumbai (Bombay).
In Gothenburg, the second largest city in Sweden and the heart of Scandinavia, there are many iconic images that symbolise the city. But one of the indisputable landmarks of the 400-year-old city of Gothenburg is the steeple tower of Masthuggskyrkan, a church built in National Romantic style of architecture.
Joakim Thoresson, one of the priests of the church and resident of the city, said the steeple tower of Masthuggskyrkan is definitely one of the symbols of the city. As a result of its popularity and iconic location, he said the church authorities are considering to install an elevator to reach to the top of the tower so that visitors can get a 360 degrees view of the city! Closer to the River Göta, the church sits on one of the hills of Gothenburg and dominates the skyline with its huge tower, steeple. The tower rises to 60 metres in height and 11 meters in width and 127 meters above sea level.
In the courtyard of the church lies a stone on which an aphorism of Dag Hammerskjöld is etched: The longest journey is the journey inwards. –Dag Hammerskjöld
The longest journey is the journey inwards. –Dag Hammerskjöld
THE CHURCH OF THE PEOPLE, FOR THE PEOPLE:
Masthuggskyrkan the church was built for the commoners. In the first decade of the 20th century, inequalities were common, both financially and socially. Religiously, there were restrictions in gaining access to a house of god. One had to pay money to attend a service in a church. Joakim said the area was really poor in 1914. The area in which the church is located is called Masthugget; it was a poor area at that time, and there were many who could afford to pay to attend a church service. Oscar Frederik Church was for wealthier people. Poor people never felt comfortable in that church, also it was a time one has to rent a bench in the church or else stand, and the mass stretched for not less than two hours.
“This church became a church for all, everyone, built for everyone. You can come and sit, and this influenced all other churches,” said Joakim.
RED BRICK STEEPLE:
A tall bulbous redbrick steeple rises from the church’s premises and serenades over the city. It is tipped by a wind vane: a colourful cockerel moves to the wind.
Gothenburg is also a windy city: the rain and the wind constantly batter the city but the residents are immune to it and carry on their lives.
The steeple has the utility aspect to it: clocks on its four sides, and there is an invisible belfry.
NATIONAL ROMANTIC STYLE:
The steeple is not Gothic, not classical but is built in National Romantic Style (Romantic Nationalism). Similar such structures in Gothenburg are in the buildings of Carlanderska Hospital and the Natural History Museum in Slottskogen.
The steeple draws the attention of a visitor or first-timer to the city because of its location and unusual style, which is National Romantic Style in Nordic architecture, an aspect of Romantic Nationalism. The Scandinavian and Nordic countries were re-discovering their past. The church reflects it in a lot of its carvings, and travelling back to the old church time and medieval time. Joakim explained, “During the beginning of twentieth century people were discovering their national identity, wants to claim heritage from the past, it is almost like a castle, travel back to monasteries or Viking age. During Viking age we had the idea of people traveling all over the world, wealthy and powerful.”
THE ARCHITECT:
Sigfrid Ericson (1879 October 7–1958 January 22) was the architect of the church (also the architect of Johannebergskyrkan, another church in the city) currently under the diocese of Gothenburg, Church of Sweden.
The church was built to accommodate 1050 people, of which 250 are in the stands but there is space only for 500 now. Nowadays the number of church goers depend upon the season and weekdays.
The church constantly adds some extension: a model of full-rigged ship, Java, was given to the church by the Maritime Museum in 1944 on the occasion of completing 30 years. Ninnan Santesson the artist carved the wood sculptures at the altar in red and gold but painted in 1923 by Bertil Nordström.
POPULAR TOURIST SPOT:
In the second decade of the 21st century, Masthuggs Church is one of the most visited sights of the city: more than 100,000 visitors a year. It is a major attraction for the visitors and tourists because of its architectural significance (Romantic Nationalism) and location. It forms a stunning silhouette for the city in addition the bridge and the crane adjacent to its location in the city.
The striking presence of the church’s tower rises from the three-storeyed long house.
The church offers many services including counselling and meditation sessions in addition to offering rituals associated with birth, death and marriages.
CATERING TO THE CHANGING TIMES:
On a new year’s eve, any person can come with another person to marry here, both homosexual and heterosexual marriages. The only prerequisite is that one of them has to be a member of the Swedish Church.
Today the church is visible from many parts of the city: as you come closer the church will grow bigger and bigger; as you go away from the church it will grow clear and clearer as a holistic structure on the hill especially the steeple. The church is a familiar presence in the city but many of them would not have visited.
It is one of the 400 experiences to do, to know, to see in Gothenburg aka Göteborg (1621–2021) in Sweden.
